Billecart Salmon Magnum!
Salmon Cru Marinee
I am in Cannes for MIP-TV, where the opening was very smooth. As a result of the writers strike, the show seems very slow, with lots of empty space in the Palais. Tangram executed 14 trade show projects, and then we enjoyed our traditional 'first day of the show' lunch! Look at the sky - that's why they call it the Cote d'Azur!
Vegaluna has the most superb food - their presentation is second to none! and friendly service - it is located just opposite the Carlton Hotel. In attendance were old friends and colleagues, Richard Scattergood, John Manning, and Chris Symes (the Graphic Czar), as well as Tangram Cannes office staffers, Glenville Williams and Peter Ritchie, New York team members Kim Hobby and Justin Emerson, LA's Claire O'Farrell and my old mate and partner Aidan Corish.
Later in the show we had a great meal with Isabelle Hen-Wollmacher from AETN International at a restaurant called Chez Louis, also in Cannes near the Marche Forville. They serve market cusinine - what ever is fresh that day - fantastic, like home cooking - very fresh food and nice provencal wine which is really good and fresh. You are served an avalanche of appetisers from marinated herring to chicken liver pate to marinated curried vegetables and vinegered cherries, fresh salads, then pick a plat du jour - I had a vegetable farcie which was way bon! Dessert is a bonus, fromage blanc (like a fattier version of yogurt) and several delicious compotes! All this combined with a tart and not too flowery viognier from provence!
On the other hand we had a miserable dinner in the Old Town of Cannes at Le Cosi on the rue St. Antoine. Their kitchen must have had a mutiny - it took us over an hour to just get a glass of water - let alone a cocktail. The staff could not have been ruder. Although the food was delicious, when it came two hours after we sat down, I will never go there again. Unforgivable transgression of the fine French Tradition of gracious dining service.
Speaking of cocktails, I have a favorite bar in Cannes - Bar Lalu which has been hipified in the past couple of years. Bar Lalu is so small you could put it in your pocket, but the proprietor is so nice and the view is of the Rue du Commandant André, a busy night time street in Cannes - a fine place ot have a Pastis to start the night, or a petite cognac to end it!
We had a fun dinner at Chez Vincent et Nicolas at the base of the old town on 92 Rue Meynadier.
This is a hip, upbeat, modern restaurant with an eclectic menu - the "Veritable Hamburger" made of fois gras goes very well with a bottle of crisp Chablis!
But then again, what doesn't?
We had another great meal at Le Riad, a Morrocan Restaurant on the impasse Florian. The chicken tajine was delicious with preserved lemons and olives, and the spices were a welcome change to the heavier french fare. They also have a beautiful belly dancer!
After dinner we went to the Grand Hotel for a nightcap, but it was grossly packed and loud, so we wandered down to the Gray D'Albion whose lovely bar was like a quiet oasis.
What is the secret of the great Gin and Tonics in Cannes, particularly at the Caffe Roma? Schweppes Indian Tonic of course! This is considered to be a controlled substance in the US because of the high quinine content!
We recommend a rondele du citron jaune, the genesis of our favorite waiter's name, Citron Jean!
Caffe Roma also does a great omelet for breakfast, and is the main crossroads of Cannes due to its proximity to the Palais des Festival.
Shopping on the Rue d'Antibes was severely restricted by the poor value of the dollar, but one place of note is Bottier Jeff. We came across this amazing little shoestore on a sidestreet to the rue d'Antibes, 4 rue Tony Allard. The Store is just as great as it is small. The owners have made the most careful collection of super high end, handmade shoes to sell. On the wall you'll find a large photo inside of the store of the owner and Sylvester Stallone (who is one of their customers).
My only purchase was at Arthur, a swimwear store. My Ville Brequin bathing suit has lost its stretch in the waist (duh!), and Arthur had very nice bathing suits at a lower price....
As always, a trip to Cannes is incomplete without a dis to Delta Airlines who have flown the 82/83 direct route NCE-JFK for years- since Pan Am went out of business. The planes are crowded and smelly, and the crew are the most veteran in the fleet - a group of mean battle axes that brook no bad behavior! The flights are always, always, PACKED!
So - stop at Pattiserie PAUL on your way to the Delta check in desk at Terminal 2 and buy a Sandwich Chicken and a Sandwich Mixte - ask for a packette de moutarde, and avoid the disgusting airline food - a bottle of Vitel and you are on your way!
As ever many thanks to all of our clients at MIP-TV who make all of this musing and dining a possibility!